Quality Construction - Shoe Edition

This article is a basic breakdown of what makes a well made shoe. It is a compilation of my knowledge of construction methods, and what I have found to be the best.

The visual aids below are provided by a friend in the cordovan (shoe-making) industry, Scarpe di Bianco. Di Bianco makes some of the best shoes I have ever seen, a fantastically crafted product.

There are three construction methods for proper shoes. McKay/Blake, Goodyear, and Norwegian.

McKay/Blake is where the upper (the side of the shoe) is sewn with a running stitch to the insole. It is a simple way of making a shoe, and not a terrible one either. The standard Italian loafer in a man's wardrobe, the Ferragamo, is constructed in such a method. The simplicity of the design allows for maximum mobility.

Goodyear is constructed with an additional piece of leather. The piece of leather is placed outside of the upper and above the sole. This piece (called the welt) is sewn first to the insole, through the upper (think of the welt on the outside of the upper, the insole on the inside of the upper, and one stitch connecting all three). Then this whole construction is sewn to the sole with a piece of cork below the insole to allow for a perfect fit. Goodyear shoes are able to be deconstructed and reconstructed easier than McKay/Blake shoes. They are, therefore, praised as having a longer life ability.

Norwegian shoes are an art form due to their complexity. The upper is tucked under the welt in this construction. So, to the outside observer, it would appear that there is a welt, another piece of leather (actually the upper bent under the welt), and then the sole. Placing the welt on top of the upper means that the stitching connecting it to the insole, through the upper, is visible on the outside of the shoe. To those that know what they are looking for, it is a sort of craftsman's tell. As with the Goodyear, there is cork between the insole and the sole. Also, much like Goodyear, given its re-craft-ability, it has a long life expectancy.

There are many, many pieces to a shoe, and they all have proper names. I am happy to do an article on this, but thanks again to Scarpe di Bianco, we have an excellent diagram to summarize for us. As far as choice of materials is concerned, this is very important, natural is better! Leather, wood, cork, possible metal for the shank. Anything else just doesn't work as well. It is possible with an excellent cordovan to get rubber fused to the bottom of the shoe. This is a utility for comfort and grip. I personally like the straight leather bottoms, although there is something 'Bambi on the ice-esq' about the first time you wear them.

It deserves to be said that from a waterproofing standpoint the more complex of a construction, the less likely water is to enter the shoe.